Articles in Reef Chemistry
The Best Way to Track Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium in a Reef Tank
Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium are the three pillars of reef chemistry. Tracking them well is straightforward once you know what to log, how often, and what to do with the record.
Read article →How to Lower Nitrate in a Reef Tank: Carbon Dosing, GFO, Water Changes, and More
High nitrate in a reef tank means algae, muted coral colors, and dirty-looking water. Here are the proven ways to lower it without crashing your nutrients to zero.
Read article →Reef Tank Nitrate and Phosphate: Target Range, Testing, and Why "Zero" Is Bad
Both nitrate and phosphate are required for healthy coral growth in trace amounts. Zero is not the goal. Here is the full guide to managing nutrients in a reef tank.
Read article →Reef Tank Magnesium: Target Range, Why It Matters, Testing, and Dosing
Magnesium is the silent enabler of reef chemistry. It does not visibly do anything until it drops too low — then suddenly your calcium and alkalinity stop responding to dosing. Here is what reef keepers need to know.
Read article →Reef Tank Calcium: Target Range, Testing, Dosing, and Balance with Alkalinity
Calcium is the structural element that builds coral skeletons. It moves slower than alkalinity but matters just as much. Here is the complete reef-keeper guide to calcium, testing, dosing, and balance.
Read article →Reef Tank Alkalinity: Complete Guide to dKH, meq/L, Testing, and Stability
Alkalinity is the single most important reef parameter to track. It moves daily, drives coral skeletal growth, and is the first thing to drift when something is off. Here is the practical guide for reef keepers.
Read article →Why Reef Tank pH Drops at Night (And How to Fix It)
Almost every reef tank shows lower pH at night than during the day. It is normal biology and indoor air CO2. Here is exactly why and what to do about it.
Read article →Reef Tank ORP: What It Means, Target Range, and Why It Is Less Important Than Reefers Think
ORP measures oxidation-reduction potential — how oxidizing the water is. Reef keepers measure it, ozone hobbyists obsess over it, but most reef tanks run fine without ever consciously thinking about it.
Read article →Reef Tank Stability: Why One Perfect Test Result Does Not Tell the Whole Story
A single perfect alkalinity reading does not mean the tank is stable. Stability lives in the movement of your parameters week over week. This is what that looks like and how to measure it.
Read article →Reef Tank Salinity: Target Range (1.025 / 35 ppt), Testing, and Top-Off Math
Salinity sounds simple — keep it at 1.025 — but evaporation moves it constantly and most beginner-tank problems start with bad refractometer calibration. Here is the practical guide.
Read article →Reef Tank pH: Target Range, Why It Drops at Night, and How to Stabilize It
pH is the most rhythmic parameter in a reef tank. It rises during the day and drops at night, and indoor CO2 is the #1 reason a tank runs low. Here is the practical guide.
Read article →Reef Tank Temperature: Target Range (76–80°F), Stability, Heaters, and Chillers
Reef tank temperature should sit between 76 and 80°F with the smallest possible daily swing. Both heat and cold spikes can wipe out corals, but the everyday killer is failed heaters cooking a tank overnight.
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